GLAZE/TINT
In my instructions I use the term “Glaze” quite frequently. This is a
transparent layer of color applied over a previously based or floated
color, which will accent it and deepen the inner glow of the colors. I
generally use this over the highlighted area of the painting, but it can
be done anywhere. Using a dampened flat brush, as large as is
appropriate for the area, side load in color, palette blend thoroughly
and then apply to the area desired. While still wet, use a dry Smop
Brush, Series #400 or a Dynasty, Series #200, Dry Brush and gently tap
the edges to soften them.
THINNING PAINT WITH WATER
Always make sure that you use clean water. Using dirty water can change
the color of your paint. Practice keeping two water containers on your
work table, one for cleaning brushes, and another for a clean water
source.
TRANSPARENT COLORS ON A DARK BACKGROUND
When painting on a very dark background, with colors such as red and
yellow, which are more transparent that some colors, it is very helpful
to undercoat the patterned areas with an opaque color such as a light
grey, this helps the reds and yellow cover much easier with fewer coats
of paint.
FLOATING AND BRUSH CHOICE
When floating color always use the largest brush possible for the area
you are working in. Be sure to take the time to palette blend
thoroughly, this will make your floated colors look much softer.
TAKE GOOD CARE OF YOUR BRUSHES!
prefer the Black Gold and Dynasty brushes from FM
Brush Company. Take the time after each use to thoroughly clean your
brushes. I use Delta Ceramcoat Brush Cleaner, to remove any paint
accumulation, then rinse them thoroughly with cool water, never hot.
Hot water will just set the paint in your brushes, and melt the glue
which holds the hairs inside the ferrule. If you follow this procedure
after each use, I am sure that you will find your brushes last much
longer and, in the long run, save you money.
After all, don't we all
like to save money?
ROSY CHEEKS
Make rosy cheeks, using a DRY, Dynasty Dry brush, size appropriate for
the area. Dip brush into full strength paint and remove excess on paper
towel, work brush softly in a circular motion.
LINEWORK
When you are going to do linework, with acrylic paints, using a
liner or scroller brush, REMEMBER that you should thin your paint with clean water to an
"ink like" consistency. Hold your brush perpendicular to your working surface and
apply gentle pressure for fine lines, more pressure for wider areas.
Your linework will be much more interesting and effective if it is not
all the same width. When I started painting I had a very fun teacher who
taught us to say "Skinny, Fat, Skinny" as we were learning to do
linework. PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE is definitely the rule here.
WOOD PREPARATION
Lightly sand wood, if needed, with fine sandpaper. An emery board
works well in the small areas and edges of wood cutouts. Wipe clean.
Fill any imperfections with a wood filler or wood putty, let dry and
sand lightly again. Wipe clean and then seal wood with wood sealer,
following the manufacturers directions on the container, and let dry.
Lightly sand again and wipe clean. Following these steps will give you a
very nice painting surface and give your finished work a much more
professional quality. It may seem very boring, all this sanding, but it
is totally worth your efforts.
